"The Old Country"
Although there are ancestors in my tree from England and
Scotland (and perhaps Wales) it is Ireland which is the “old country” for my
family, and for my husband’s. My links
there are 3 generations old; Paul’s are much more recent. His mother was born there and returned a few
times to visit family. On his paternal line, his 4x great grandparents were sent from Ireland as convicts.
We didn’t know much family history when we made our first
trip to Europe in the 1970s, but we knew enough to include visits to two important places which
loom large in the family stories – Roscrea (the Whitten family - my mother) and
Shannonbridge (the Kilroe family – Paul’s mother)
In 1977, there were still Whittens at Fancroft,
the home near Roscrea in County Tipperary from which my great grandfather Anthony Whitten had
emigrated in 1862. Marjorie Whitten was
the last of her generation, having inherited the farm through her grandfather,
John (Anthony’s brother). Her nephew, Bill Williams, was working the land and
the animals.
Fancroft in the 1850s |
At the time of our
visit in 1977, she was 76 and quite frail, but she made us welcome. We were travelling with my sister, and she
had little gifts for both my sister and me – a recipe book compiled by women
from Marjorie’s church for me, and (I think) a locally printed tea towel for
Libby. She was distressed to realise
that there was no gift for Paul, so she took the farm bell off the mantelpiece
and presented it to him, explaining that it was used to call the workers in to
meals.
(My mother so coveted this that we gave it to her, and it
took pride of place in her kitchen until her death, when it came back to
us).
The Fancroft Bell |
Marjorie was happy to show us around and to pore over old
photographs with us – we found unknown uncles and cousins who looked like our
brother – and to dispel some family myths.
We had naively believed that the famine had been the cause of 19th
century family emigrations to Australia and Canada – Marjorie thought it far
more likely that family disputes and hot-headedness was the reason.
The kitchen was an enormous room. Another Whitten descendant wrote this
description.
“The kitchen was a real eye-opener.
The walls in this section of the house would be three feet thick and solid
stone. There are huge rough hewn beams in the ceiling, and from one of them
dangles an old branding iron "E.W." and from the others, rams horns
and deer horns…. The kitchen must be forty feet square, with a stone floor,
wearing in patches, but very smooth…There is a huge churn in the kitchen where Marjorie still churns twice a
week. It is something of an antique and is about the size of a forty gallon
keg, and the same shape, and sits on a stand to facilitate hinged action
pouring.”
The walls were hung with copper
saucepans – we were told that they had been made by family members hundreds of
years ago. (This is one of the reasons
why there is a belief in Huguenot ancestors, which I have never been able to
verify.)
Sadly, Marjorie died only a few months after our visit. Bill Williams inherited the farm and welcomed
a host of Whitten cousins from Australia and Canada over the next 30 years but
when he died in 2016 there was no family left.
The property left the family after more than 300 years. When I next saw it on a cold and rainy day in
2017, it was empty and looked neglected.
The new owner wanted the land, but apparently had no use for the house.
We also had a happy visit to Shannonbridge in 1977. Paul had been instructed to go to Killeen’s
pub and introduce himself – everyone there knew his mother’s family. His aunt Katie Kilroe was the only one left
and she was by this time in a nursing home, but the Killeen’s were hospitable
and showed us Katie’s house and told us family stories. Paul’s parents and siblings had been there in
previous years, so it felt as if the family were still part of the community.
Paul at Katie's house in Shannonbridge 1977 |
In 2017 we knew much more family history than on our first
visit and were better informed about both of these places. This time around we were travelling with our
son, so there was another generation to introduce to his heritage. I found a cousin living not far from Fancroft
who was able to give me more information about the Whittens, and in
Shannonbridge the parish priest found the register with Paul’s great
grandparent’s marriage. We visited
Katie’s grave at Clonmacnois, and then Paul’s grandfather’s grave in Dublin.
Paul and Brendan at Robert Keogh's grave, Dublin 2017 |
On this visit, I also tried to find some connections to my
father’s family, the Gleesons. My great
grandfather James Patrick Gleeson came to Australia from County Clare in the
1860s, with some of his siblings. We
spent a week based in Ennis and some time in the Family History Research centre
there but with little success. The poor
and illiterate leave few footprints.
Ennis is a delightful town renowned for its Irish music, so
we enjoyed being there. The highlight
was being greeted by a local on our first morning as we stood on a street
corner, puzzling over a map.
“I’m not the Mayor of Ennis,” he said, offering his
hand. “But you’re very welcome.”
Since 2017, I know even more about my Irish ancestors and
was excited to be going back to Ireland in September 2020. Now, unfortunately, that trip is on
hold. I wanted to go to Roscommon, where
I now know my Power and Plunkett ancestors lived. And Ballingarry, where the Mason family lived
before they emigrated in the 1840s. We
were planning to spend some time with a Shannonbridge local who has lots of
information about the Kilroes and we were going to visit the house that Paul’s
mother Kathleen lived in as a child in Dublin.
The first of my family to return to Ireland were great
uncles Albert and Alfred in 1913. I
imagine it was all very familiar to them – after all, their father and uncles
would have spoken with Irish accents and the stories of their home would have
been very fresh. Two generations later,
I don’t have this connection, but it’s certainly true that I feel very
comfortable in Ireland. Not really “at
home”, but very welcome.